Everything Motocampers Need to Know About: TENTS

All successful camping trips, motocamping missions included, depend on having the right gear: sleeping bags, apparel, camp stoves and cookware, camp furniture, sleeping pads, and more. Every piece of gear is important, but perhaps no piece of gear is as important as your shelter. The best tents for camping will bring it all together.

I’ve been backpacking and camping for nearly 20 years, and motocamping for almost half that time, so I’ve made almost every mistake in the book. In this article, I’ll try to break down everything you could possibly want to know about a tent, from size and style to season-rating, weight, and components.

What Does a Tent Do?

This might seem like a stupid question. A tent gives you a place to sleep, duh! But when you’re shopping for a tent, it’s worth considering what exactly you want your tent to do. Sure, at a basic level, all tents are designed to provide a place to sleep, but they serve other purposes, too.

Your tent should keep you free of mosquitos, ticks, chiggers, and other pests. It should keep you warm during cold weather, and cool during hot weather. It should provide shade from the sun, keep you dry in the, and offer a place to store and organize your gear. In inclement weather, your tent—or more accurately its vestibule—may even serve as a place to cook meals and/or clean dishes. (Ventilate and use extreme caution! Beware of CO2 buildup.)

On an ultralight mission, where every ounce or square inch of space is critical, you may not want your tent to do much more than give you a place to crawl into at night. But on a long-haul trip, where you’ll be living in a tent for days or weeks on end, extra space, and accessories like interior storage pockets, multiple openings, hanging loops and gear lofts, and adjustable vents can come in handy. 

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Tent Styles

Camping tents can be broken into two main styles, freestanding and non-freestanding. There are also other styles like semi-freestanding tents and bivy sacks, which we’ll touch briefly on below.

Freestanding Tents

These tents use a dedicated pole structure that allows them to stand on their own without needing to be staked out. This is a huge advantage in many situations; it means you can pitch your tent on hard-packed dirt, gravel lots, sand, solid rock, or other areas where stakes are useless. Freestanding tents are easy to set up, and you can pick them up and move them easily to find the perfect spot. 

Most of the tents here at Moto Camp Nerd are freestanding, but examples include bestselling models like the Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2 Bikepack Tent and the ALPS Mountaineering Helix.

Non-Freestanding Tents

These ultralight shelters rely on stakes, guylines, and/or a dedicated center pole—which can sometimes double as a trekking pole—for their structure. Non-freestanding tents, which usually take the form of either a parallel A-frame or a singular pyramid, pack down incredibly small and are exceptionally light, because they rely on fewer components.

However, they require more practice to pitch correctly and must be staked into the ground, meaning you have to be careful about the campsites you choose. (You can’t pitch a non-freestanding tent on rock, for example.) Tents like the ALPS Mountaineering Hex and the Six Moon Lunar Solo are good examples of non-freestanding tents.

Other Tent/Shelter Styles & Types

Semi-freestanding tents: these hybrid tent styles usually have a main pole structure that holds up the majority of the tent, particularly the head and torso area. However, one end of the tent, usually the footbox, lacks pole support and must be staked out to achieve its full shape and interior volume.

Bivy sacks: Built for the ultimate minimalist, a bivy sack is basically a bag that slips over your sleeping bag, with no extra space. Its primary advantage is its incredibly small packed size and low weight. Bivy sacks are the most compact shelter option available. However, they offer no room for gear, can feel pretty claustrophobic, and aren’t ideal for waiting out extended periods of bad weather. One example of a bivy sack is the Snugpak Stratosphere. 

Tarps: A tarp is simply a waterproof sheet of fabric with tie-out points, offering major versatility for its weight. Tarps can be pitched in numerous configurations using trees, guylines, or even your motorcycle. For obvious reasons, tarps provide excellent ventilation, and are probably the lightest option out there. For a summer camping trip with clear skies on the forecast, tarps are a good choice. The main drawbacks are the lack of protection from insects, angled rain, and groundwater, and the skill required to achieve a storm-worthy pitch. 

Hammocks: Hammocks are lightweight (no poles), and offer great ventilation. They also can be a good choice in wet weather, as they keep you up off the ground, and can be used on surfaces where you couldn’t normally stake out a tent (rock, hard-packed dirt, etc.) However, you need two perfectly-spaced trees to hang your hammock—so they’re almost useless in deserts, prairies, or above the treeline. There’s also limited storage space for your gear, and hammocks can be very cold without bottom insulation. 

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The Key Parts of a Tent

Unlike a sleeping bag or mattress, a tent isn’t just one piece of gear, it’s a system of parts working together. Understanding them helps you know what you’re buying. Below, I’ll list them in the order in which you’ll use them when setting up your tent.

Footprint: A footprint is your tent’s base layer, a piece of durable, synthetic fabric that’s the same shape as your tent’s floor and is what separates it from the ground. Some tents come with a footprint included, others don’t come with a footprint, and it's up to you whether or not you purchase one separately. A footprint’s job is to protect your tent’s floor from rocks, sticks, and abrasive dirt, extending the life of your tent by preventing punctures and wear and tear. Footprints can also help stop water that flows beneath your tent from seeping through the floor fabric.

NOTE: Footprints are optional, as many modern tent bottoms are plenty burly, but I usually use one footprint whenever I camp. It’s far cheaper to replace a worn-out footprint than to repair or replace a tent’s ground floor.

Body: This is the main tent structure, usually made of nylon and mesh panels (for ventilation and stargazing). The balance of mesh to solid fabric often determines a tent's ideal climate.

Poles: The skeleton of your tent. Most quality tent poles are made from lightweight and strong aluminum. They’re shock-corded, meaning an elastic cord runs through the segments, making assembly quick and intuitive, and keeping each segment together.

Rainfly: This is the waterproof outer layer that goes over the tent body. If the sky is clear and the climes are warm, you may not want to set up your fly, but in your shield against rain and wind. At the door of your tent, the space between the rainfly and the tent body will create a vestibule, which is a covered area for stashing muddy boots and gear.

Stakes & guylines: While a freestanding tent can stand on its own, you still need to stake it out to secure it against wind and to properly tension the rainfly. Guylines are the extra cords you can attach to loops on your rainfly for added stability in high winds.

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Tent Sizes

While every tent will have packed dimensions and pitched dimensions (length, width, height), they usually aren’t listed like this. Instead, you’ll see them advertised by the amount of people they can hold (2-person tent, 3-person tent, 4-person tent, and so on).

This metric really refers to the bare minimum. With that in mind, It’s almost always a good idea to size up, particularly if you’re traveling on a motorcycle and can manage the extra weight. 

A 1-person tent will have room for you and a sleeping pad, and that’s about it. (Most are based on a 20” wide sleeping pad.) A 2-person tent gives a solo rider enough space to bring their helmet, maybe boots, and small bag. If you want to bring all your riding gear inside—jacket, pants, helmet—safe from weather and critters, a 3-person tent will give you enough space. This extra livable space will really come in handy on rainy days, and makes life much more comfortable.

Tents by Season

You’ll often see tents categorized by season (1-season, 2-season, 3-season). This sort of refers to the seasons you can use your tent in, but it’s more of a metric. As the number increases, the tent gets burlier. The biggest changes are 1) more poles for structure and support, and 2) less mesh for better warmth. 

One-season tents are pretty much useless outside of balmy days and clear skies. Two-season tents can handle a bit of light rain and a chill, but are quite similar to 1-season tents. (You rarely see tents advertised as one or two-season, anyways.)

For 90% of all motocamping trips, you’ll be using a 3-season tent. These tents are designed for use in spring, summer, and fall. They’re built to protect you from rain and wind while prioritizing good ventilation, with ample mesh panels to combat condensation and keep you comfortable on warm nights. While they can handle a bit of snow, they aren’t structured to support the weight of heavy snow. 

For trips in the winter, you’ll want a 4-season tent, which is designed to keep you warm in sub-freezing climes, and withstand high winds and snow loads. 

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Tent Metrics

Let’s cover the main measurements you need to know about your tent: weight, volume, peak height, and floor area. You can search for tents using these measurements in the filters tab on the left-hand side of our category pages.

Packed Weight

This is the total weight of the tent and all its included components (body, fly, poles, stakes, stuff sacks). Unlike backpacking or pedal bicycling, on a motorcycle, your tent’s weight isn’t as big of a concern as its packed size, but it’s still worth considering.

While a lighter tent is easier to pack and carry, be aware that ultralight models often achieve low weight by using more delicate fabrics, reduced components, or offering less interior space. It’s a balance between weight, durability, and comfort. On the ultralight end, some tents weigh as little as 2 to 3 pounds. Most weigh around 4 lbs, and on the heavier end, you’ll find tents that weigh 6 to 7 lbs or more. 

NOTE: You may also see a measurement called “Trail Weight.” Unlike packed weight, which refers to the total weight of all the tent’s components, Trail Weight refers to the lightest possible configuration of the 

Packed Volume, Length, & Width

For motorcycle campers, this might be the most critical metric of all. Like backpacks or panniers, most tents are described by their volume in liters (L). Ultralight tents can be as little as 3 L, heavy duty tents may take up to 7 to 10 L of space, or more. (For reference, a standard Nalgene water bottle is 1L.)

While volume is a good overall metric, also examine your tent’s packed length and width. The fabric components of a tent can be broken up and stored in multiple places (you could store the footprint in one pannier, and the tent body and rainfly in another, for example) and stuffed down, you can’t get around the length of the folded poles. These will dictate whether your tent can fit inside your panniers, or if it needs to be strapped to the outside. Measure your panniers before buying a tent!

Peak Height

Peak height (or “head height”) is the measurement from the tent’s floor to its ceiling at the highest point. A tent with a low peak height can feel cramped, forcing you to bend low while changing or organizing gear, or perhaps not even allowing you to fully sit up in the first place. A generous peak height (~40 inches or more) allows you to sit up comfortably, making the experience of changing clothes, organizing gear, eating dinner, or waiting out a rainstorm much more pleasant. 

That said, remember that a higher peak height means more materials, more pole sets, and a much larger pack. As motocampers, many of us will be packing up and moving day-by-day, and won’t be spending tons of time hanging out in our tents. In my experience, weight and packed size are more important than peak height. Weigh your options.

Floor Area

This is the total area (length x width) of the tent's floor. It gives you a single, standardized number to compare the overall interior space between different tents. Like peak height, floor area is a good way to approximate a tent’s livability—how comfortable you’ll be in it for long periods of time.

In addition to the overall floor area, it’s worth specifically looking into the tent’s length and width. This tells you if your sleeping pad will fit (and how many pads can fit side by side), and how much extra space you'll have for gear. Pay close attention to the shape; some modern tents are tapered, meaning they are wider at the head and narrower at the feet to save weight. Always check these dimensions to ensure you’ll have the room you need.

Vestibule Area

The vestibule is the covered area outside your main tent door but under the rainfly. You’ll usually see this measurement presented as a volume (ex. 8ft²/ 8ft²). Vestibule space isn’t crucial for many normal campers, but it’s absolutely critical for us motocampers! 

Your vestibule is where you can store your muddy boots, helmet, wet rain gear, and panniers, to keep them out of the elements while still keeping your sleeping area clean and dry. A larger vestibule also provides a sheltered space to cook during bad weather.

Tent Accessories 

Beyond the main specs, seemingly minor accessory features can also go a long way towards transforming a tent from a basic shelter into a comfortable homebase. Interior pockets are non-negotiable, for stashing small essentials like your headlamp, bike keys, and phone, keeping them organized and off the floor. Also, consider how many doors your tent has. For solo riders, one door is fine, but multiple doors are a huge plus for ventilation, and offer flexibility in how you orient your tent.

A ceiling loop for hanging a lantern is standard on most quality tents, but a gear loft—a mesh shelf that clips to the ceiling—is an excellent bonus for drying damp gloves or socks. Finally, adjustable venting flaps are critical for summer trips. Look for high and low venting options that can be zipped open and shut. This creates airflow that allows the moisture from your breath to escape, which is the single most important factor in preventing condensation, and waking up dry and comfortable.

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